How Industrial Farming 'Destroyed' The Tasty Tomato
If you bite into a tomato between the months of October and June, chances are that tomato came from Florida. The Sunshine State accounts for one-third of all fresh tomatoes produced in the United States — and virtually all of the tomatoes raised during the fall and winter seasons.
But the tomatoes grown in Florida differ dramatically from the red garden varieties you might grow in your backyard. They're bred to be perfectly formed — so that they can make their way across the U.S. and onto your dinner table without cracking or breaking.
"For the last 50 or more years, tomato breeders have concentrated essentially on one thing and that is yield — they want plants that yield as many or as much as possible," writer Barry Estabrook tells Fresh Air . The book was based on a James Beard Award-winning article that originally appeared in Gourmet magazine , where Estabrook was a contributing editor before publication ceased in 2009.
Estabrook says the mass-produced tomatoes in today's supermarkets lack flavor because they were bred for enduring long journeys to the supermarket — and not for taste.
"As one large Florida farmer said, 'I don't get paid a single cent for flavor,' " says Estabrook. "He said, 'I get paid for weight. And I don't know of any supermarket shopper who tastes her tomatoes before she puts them in her shopping cart.' ... It's not worth commercial plant breeders' while to breed for taste because their customers — the large farmers — don't get paid for it."
As a result, customers have become accustomed to the flavorless tomatoes that dot supermarket shelves, says Estabrook.
"I was speaking to a person in their 30s recently and she said she had never recalled tasting anything other than a supermarket tomato," he says. "I think that wanting a tomato in the winter of winter — or wanting a little bit of orange on the plate ... is inherent in a lot of our shopping decisions. We expect an ingredient to be on the supermarket shelves 365 days a year, whether or whether not it's in season or tastes any good."
Let's Call The Whole Thing Off?
Though most of our tomatoes come from Florida, the state isn't necessarily the best place to grow the crop, says Estabrook. Most tomatoes are grown in sand, which contains few nutrients and organic materials. In addition, Florida's humidity breeds large populations of insects, which means tomato growers need to apply chemical pesticides on a weekly basis.
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"You've come to the right place," she said, sitting me down as if I were one of her less promising undergrads. "If you want to understand how we grow tomatoes, you have to start at the end of the last harvest, which around here is in April.
Certainly, there are times when one wonders if the film's original title wasn't meant to be Page None, so swamped does the Times sometimes seem by the onslaught of online outlets: Twitter, WikiLeaks, and all manner of news-breaking blogs—Nick Denton's
Mulch helps to suppress weed germination, retain moisture, insulate the soil, and reduce erosion. Mulch also contributes nutrients the soil by gradually breaking down over time. During the gardening season, we heavily mulch our garden beds with grass
The teens were met with a tearful reception as their plane landed on American soil; Vanessa Cunningham confessed to breaking down in tears when she was able to hold her son again. “I was glad to see him, and to me it was just God doing exactly what he
Prepping the ground involves three steps: plowing, disking (breaking the soil into small pieces) and dragging. Instead of using fertilizers, we “drag” the soil a few times to remove small weeds that pop up. We're on track to have leeks, eggplant and
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